![]() Connect the snap hook at the inside end of the rope.ĩ. Run the yellow rope through the hole in the top. Tip: mark one side of the bottom & top sheet, so you remember the relative position of the legs.Ĩ. Hold the leg in the correct position when glueing. Glue around one leg, stick two flat pieces of rubber around it. Make sure the aluminum is facing the table! Position the four legs in the corners of the sheet.ħ. Take the sheet of plastic with the aluminum foil on the bottom. These will be used to keep the legs in the right position at the bottom sheet.Ħ. Cut eight flat, rectangular pieces of rubber. ![]() glue the legs to the top sheet, neatly positioned in the corners.ĥ. Cut four legs out of dense cell-foam rubber.Ĥ. Take the sheet of plastic with the hole in the middle, the top of the cube.ģ. The frame has some flexibility to allow for the cover to be pulled over it, afterwards.ġ. It is not a solid box, but an open structure so the sound is not obstructed by any walls. It should be able to bend and touch the aluminum when you hit it, yet at the same time spring back to it's original position so it will not make contact all the time. Tip: the slip-in folders in which you store documents are perfect. Cut a square of 20 cm from a flexible (but not too floppy!) piece of plastic sheet. Cut a round hole (15 cm diameter) in the sheet of soft foam rubber. Cut a piece of aluminum foil in the same shape as the taped figure. Stick double-sided tape in between the four holes and create a triangle reaching towards one of the outer holes.ĥ. Here the wires from the sound module will run through.Ĥ. ![]() Drill two more holes, an inch outside the square. This will be the connection point for the suspension rope. Draw a square from the midpoint on the other sheet, approximately 15 cm wide. This will be the top of the cube, where the suspension rope will run through. Cut two sheets of firm plastic, 30.5 cm square.Ģ. If the layers touch each other, the circuit closes and the sound is triggered.ġ. It consists of two conductive layers that are connected to the sound module, with a spacer in between. Actually, the whole bottom IS the switch. The switch is positioned at the bottom of the block. Remove the hand-sewn thread, open the zipper and turn the cover outside-in. Close the zipper, re-position the presser foot and continue sewing.ġ2. Gently pull the cover towards you so you can reach the zipper tag. When you reach the pulling tag of the zipper, you cannot pass it with the machine because the tag is too wide. Tip: start sewing with the zipper half-opened. Open the zipper and align the other side to the walls of the cube. Check that you do not position it inside-out! (You can fasten it with one pin, turn outside-in and see how the zipper will end up.) If all is correct, pin it and sew loosely by hand. Align one side of the zipper along the bottom of the cube. Leave two sides open! Stitch two sides.ĩ. Take the last square and pin it to the bottom. Take another square and pin it to the top. You have approximately 1 cm margin for the seams.ħ. Make sure you alternate between a plain square and a square with a question mark. Pin four yellow squares together (right sides facing each other) to create the walls of the block. For added durability, sew around the question mark (optional). Put a piece of cotton or baking paper between the iron and the fleece so the interfacing will not stick to your iron.ĥ. Position the question marks and black strips on a yellow square and iron them on. Cut strips of black fleece to create the drop-shadows on the side of the question marks.Ĥ. Use the question mark template to transfer the drawing onto the white fleece. Make sure you leave the protection in place on the other side of the interfacing.Ģ. Iron the fusible interfacing to the backside of the white fleece. You pull it over the frame later on, so it gets it's final shape. The yellow cover with the question marks is the eye-catcher of your Mario block.
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